As far as bells adornment goes, it’s the assurance arena that gets the best attention—but we shouldn’t balloon about the bells band, which symizes the alliance itself. Although they’re not commonly clad with a ton of chunk (although nowadays abounding are), authoritative these pieces still involves intricate and all-encompassing work. “Most couples activate the action with a atypical focus on the assurance ring, the one that starts it all, but it will acceptable abandoned be beat by itself for a abbreviate aeon of time,” explains Jamie Jaffe, third bearing jeweler and buyer of Brilliant Atlanta. “It’s consistently a acceptable abstraction to anticipate about how the assurance arena will attending with a bells band, back they’re activity to be calm for a continued time.”
In agreement of design, creating a bells bandage is added complicated than best bodies realize. “The cardinal of diamonds, their exact measurements, and the feel size all charge be accounted for to agreement the able geometry and design,” explains David Alan, able jeweler and buyer of David Alan Jewelry. “Aside from the abstruse concerns, one charge additionally accomplish abiding that the bells bandage balances able-bodied with the size, type of stones, overall ambience appearance of the assurance ring.” That’s why a custom bells bandage absolutely requires abounding steps, and it’s certainly not a activity that happens overnight. To advice you accept what goes into creating a abandoned bells band, we talked to the jewelers about the process, from alpha to finish.
Before you alike agenda a appointment to your jeweler, it’s a astute accommodation to amount out how you’d alluringly like to abrasion your ring. Some questions Jaffe recommends allurement yourself include: Do you appetite it to bout the attending and feel of the assurance ring? Will it fit alike adjoin the assurance ring? Does it charge a ambit to fit closely? Will this ring consistently be beat with the assurance ring, or will it be beat abandoned on occasion? Once you apperceive almost what you want, you’re accessible to appointment the jeweler.
Once there, you’ll alpha by advancing up with an abstraction or the abstraction for the bells band. “A artisan ability accept to duke account or cede their designs with a pencil or watercolors,” explains jeweler Tracy Matthews. “If the bandage is actuality commissioned, there’s generally a lot of alternation amid the applicant and the artisan during this appearance for architecture acknowledgment and finalizing the design.” You’ll apparently see a cardinal of altered sketches during the design process, which about takes booty a few weeks and requires at atomic a brace of meetings with your jeweler.
According to jeweler Jeffrey Bilgore, there’s a acceptable acumen why one of aboriginal decisions you’ll accept to accomplish is whether or not you appetite your bells bandage to bout your assurance ring: it clarifies the ambit and either anchorage or abundantly expands possibilities for design. If you appetite your bells bandage to attending like your assurance ring, Bilgore addendum that it’ll be adamantine for your arena to bout the groom’s. “With a analogous conjugal set, it’s added difficult for a partner’s arena to match.”
Next, you’ll charge to anticipate about the abstracts you’d like to use. While the Ancient Egyptians, who are accustomed with creating the bells arena ritual, acclimated braided hemp, reed, and gold for their bands, today’s options are endless. “Some accept to use adored metals, while others adopt amoebic or bowl material. Sometimes abstracts are combined,” explains Bilgore. “The ambit is absolutely broad, with options such as gold, platinum, titanium, palladium, silver, tungsten, wood, shell, meteorite, anachronistic bone, and the account goes on.”
Your jeweler will acceptable additionally ask if there are any allusive elements you’d like to see included. Architectural motifs from a abode you’ve visited, words, dates, and syms are all popular, Bilgore says, as is color. Many brides-to-be accept to absorb another stones such as rubies, sapphires, or any gem they love, faceted or raw. “No amount the bean of design, the bandage still holds on to the aboriginal abstraction of actuality an ceaseless amphitheater of charge and love,” he adds.
Once a architecture abstraction is finalized, a archetypal or a ancestor is made. “Depending on the blazon of design, a archetypal may be bogus anon in the abstracts on a jewelers bench,” says Matthews. “Bands that accept a sculptural feel will generally be carved in wax by the artisan or archetypal maker, while added absolute designs, abnormally bands with intricate or abundant bean settings involved, are generally created on a computer in a Computer Animated Architecture (CAD) program, which are printed into a wax already they are complete.” Thanks to new technology, CAD additionally allows for press to be performed appropriate in the metal. “This step can booty anywhere from aloof a few hours for a simple arena bogus on a bank to several canicule or alike weeks depending on the design,” Matthews adds.
“For bells bands carved in wax or modeled on CAD, the aing appearance is to accept a silicone or elastic casting bogus and again casting into metal, which allows a arena to be reproduced assorted times,” says Matthews. Depending on the blazon of metal alleged by the client, it’s again caked or spun into the and abysmal in baptize to actualize a raw casting of the ring. This step, Matthews explains, can booty annihilation from one day to one week.
Once the arena is bogus or cast, it will be pre-polished, either by the jeweler or a able polisher. “This cleans the metal of balance and prepares it for bean setting, if applicable,” explains Matthews. If you’ve alleged a band that’s clad with chunk or gemstones, those will be added now. Depending on the blazon of setting and the cardinal of stones, this appearance can booty anywhere from an hour for a few stones to several canicule for assorted stones—an aeon bandage with 40 or 50 stones, for example, requires hours of absolute labor.
Once the stones are set, the final cutting appearance can begin. “This will alter from appearance to appearance and able polishers ability accommodate assorted finishes, like glassy or aerial polish, and textures on any accustomed ring,” says Matthews. “The blazon of brightness or accomplishment can badly change or actualize the attending of a ring.” If you accept to accept your arena engraved, either on the alfresco or inside, this is the time to do so. Some jewelers alike accept a convenance of backyard their own mark, alleged a maker’s mark, central the ring.
For best jewelers, the aftermost footfall is the best exciting: The moment you get to see your accomplished bells bandage in absolute life. “Seeing joy and charge bidding and symically embodied can be an cutting experience, in the best accessible way,” says Bilgore. It is also, a time for discussing a band’s future. At David Alan Jewelry, a assignment is accustomed about at home affliction and cleaning as able-bodied as professional tune ups and cleanings.
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